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September 06, 2010, 07:57:02 PM

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New AeroQuad Frame Prototype  (Read 1336 times)

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The 4-40 threaded rod is a pain in the butt to cut and fiddle with so I am going to look for some bolts on monday to replace that with.  I have one arm together (not glued yet though) and its fairly rigid.  I think it will work quite well.
I found some 1 1/4" female-female nylon standoffs to connect the sections together.  Unfortunately they are expensive (like $1.50 a piece), so when I use 6 per arm it adds up.  I think it's the length that makes them expensive.  So I'm thinking instead of locking them together horizontally, how about I lock them together vertically (hope that made sense).  Then I could use shorter standoffs and possible save on even more weight and cost.

This whole project has been continuaully fascinating... I thought it was cool to make my own PCB... but to even be able to build our own frame?  It's AWESOME!  I am also very appreciative of you also sharing your efforts!

   
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I found some 1 1/4" female-female nylon standoffs to connect the sections together.  Unfortunately they are expensive (like $1.50 a piece), so when I use 6 per arm it adds up.  I think it's the length that makes them expensive.  So I'm thinking instead of locking them together horizontally, how about I lock them together vertically (hope that made sense).  Then I could use shorter standoffs and possible save on even more weight and cost.

If I can manage to find some 4-40 1 3/4" bolts I'll be laughting.  I am going to try some supply places tomorrow and see what I can turn up.

I am using a length of carbon fiber rod.  Cost me about $7 for each piece (got 2) and its more then enough to do all the arms and the main frame.  But that I still have to cut.  But its easier then the threaded rod to go through.

This whole project has been continuaully fascinating... I thought it was cool to make my own PCB... but to even be able to build our own frame?  It's AWESOME!  I am also very appreciative of you also sharing your efforts!

Your telling me...  My PCB has been submitted, I have all the extra components for when I get it.  the frame is cut.  Its epic.  As a pure software guy I am in heaven.  Just "make" stuff and it appears as physical items.  LOVE IT!

chris.

   
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Fred!  Thanks for the offer... I'd like to spin up a smaller frame (like really small) after I finish my bigger frame.  Would it be OK to laser cut polycarbonate with your cutter?  Pololu won't do it because they say the fumes are too bad.

Just FYI, I have your frame all setup and have spun up the motors.  I get vibrations on two of the four, but I need to make sure the motors are torqued down enough.  I did have to move them because if how I wired up the connectors.  I'm just gun shy about screwing down the motors from the last experience (felt bad about cracking them with my usage of the thread lock).  I just wanted to get my latest software releases out before I start playing with it again.  I'll take pictures and post here and at RC Groups.

I also got my latest prototype in... it looks great, seems stiff enough to fly... but is a bit heavy.

Fred or any other mechanical engineer types, what's the best plastic to use that is light, stiff, but can take the impact of a quad crash?  I've used acrylic and ABS plastic so far.  I accidentally bought Lucite before... it's VERY stiff but ultra heavy.  Besides polycarbonate are there other good plastic candidates to try?

I could try cutting polycarbonate on our cutter, but I am a bit hesitant to do it. I have only ever tried very thin polycarbonate, but I wasn't too impressed with the results. The edges tend to be rough and burned.

Don't be too afraid to tighten down the screws as much as you need to. It should be fine now that the material hasn't come in contact with a solvent, and if it does break, then I need to look more seriously into another material.

As for plastics, I have done a lot of looking into this, and have quite an extensive Excel sheet that I compiled. Here are my top five plastic choices, with their advantages and disadvantages:

1. Hydlar Z
-Advantages: Light weight, extremely strong and stiff, quite impact resistant.
-Disadvantages: Pricey! Very pricey! Also, gets much of its strength from kevlar fibers, which makes it slightly more interesting to machine, as it requires all carbide bits. (Hydlar Z is a kevlar reinforced nylon.)

2. Polycarbonate
- Advantages: Light weight, reasonably strong and stiff, extremely durable and impact resistant. Easy to machine using physical processes.
- Disadvantages: Susceptible to solvents, doesn't laser cut well.

3. Noryl
- Advantages: Lighter and stiffer than Polycarbonate, still very durable.
- Disadvantages: Susceptible to solvents, somewhat expensive.
I'm not sure if Noryl can be laser cut or not.

4. ABS
- Advantages: Very light, durable, and inexpensive. Very easy to machine or laser cut.
- Disadvantages: Not particularly stiff.

5. Glass filled Polycarbonate or Noryl
- Advantages: Much stiffer than either of their unfilled varieties, without being much heavier.
- Disadvantages: Much harder to machine, because the glass is very wearing on tools and tends to get everywhere.

 I also noticed that pyjamasam mentioned plywood. I have to agree with him that Baltic Birch plywood is a good option. It is lighter than the lightest plastics, while still being very stiff and durable. (About as durable as ABS, but much stiffer and even lighter.) It also laser cuts easily. I would like to do a little looking into this.

Also, I might try my hand at a laser cut quadrotor frame. It is looking fun! Cheesy

   

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THANK YOU for the breakdown on different potential plastics for quad frames!  I think I'm going to stick with ABS for a plastic frame, here's why:

I had my newly made frame flying nicely last night... then one of my motors stopped spinning and it fell onto my driveway, shattering a plastic dome I had used to protect the electronics.  One of the quad arms is cracked, but the whole arm is still intact.  When I inspected the quad, the motor that stopped spinning was VERY hot.  I think part of the problem (besides a faulty motor) is that Acrylic gets too be pretty heavy (at least with the amount of material used in my design).  The AUW ended up being 1.7kg.  I think that is too heavy without video equipment on it.   I weighed ABS and acrylic and they are actually pretty close (ABS a few grams lighter).  So if I don't use a plastic frame, I'm definitely going to try Baltic Birch for the next version.  I also placed an inquiry with Dragonplates.com to see how much it would cost to CNC one out of their sandwiched carbon fiber / birch plates.

I'll post a picture of my shattered dome.  It was a CCD camera dome, so I guess it really wasn't designed to protect quadrocopter electronics.

Fredjikrang, thanks again for the lesson on plastic types.  I'm going to try to put some serious time with your frame this weekend.

   
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Mikro,
     Can you tell me the formula on how long each t-rex boom should be from the center?  Is there a formula you use or do you just make sure to have all the booms a certain length to mount the motors on?  Thanks.

David

   

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David, here's a good brief on recommended frame arm length sizes. 
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12254595&postcount=1435

I typically just use as much length as I can from a T-REX tail boom (cutting off the slot and holes on each end) and make sure they are even.  You'll find that generally a longer arm length (>12 inches) gets you stability, while short arm lengths get you agility.

   
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September 06, 2010, 07:57:02 PM
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